I might write with a confident style but please don’t let that confuse you; Whilst I am a qualified Instructor and Coach, I'm not a professional climber or mountaineer so please don't take the blog post below as an authoritative guide. It’s a means of sharing my experiences and thoughts as I progress on my journey in the climbing and outdoor world and I hope they might be of help to you.
It goes without saying but I’m very sure that anyone who reads this list will be shocked that I’ve missed out this or that amazing book but it's almost inevitable. if I’ve missed something, do get in touch as I’d probably love to read it and add it to the list!
A note on links, I’ve put these in to be helpful not to direct you to a specific website or vendor. There is no money in it for me but as much as possible I’ve tried to link to the publisher or the authors website but I’m sure I’ll have got this wrong on occasion.
Books by category
Psychological / general development
9 out of 10 climbers - an excellent in-depth read as to why climbers become stuck on their journey of progress from the legendary scottish climber Dave MacLeod.
Rock Warrior's way - an exploration of the psychological aspects of climb and well worth a read if you want to lead or push on in difficult terrain.
Fear! - a case study approach looking at different sport peoples approaches to overcoming fear
Mastermind - written by the ‘master’ Jerry Moffat this book looks at mental training drawing on the experiences of a wide range of different successful climbers and the mental techniques they use.
Climb Smarter - written by a clinical psychologist and climber this is a great resource for understanding how to improve your climbing psychology and from the perspective of someone who's spent a lifetime understanding how our minds work. I've personally worked with Rebecca and found this book immensely helpful.
Physical development
Beastmaking - Written by the man in charge of Beastmaker fingerboards this is a comprehensive guide to developing physical stretch and mobility.
The Climbing Bible - a comprehensive guide to training effectively by two highly experienced Norwegian climbers, physiotherapists and coaches. This covers all aspects of climbing development.
Training for climbing - By the legendary American ‘Coach Horst’, now in its 3rd edition this is another comprehensive climbing bible.
Movement & Technique
Rock climbing technique - an excellent resource by John Kettle for those who want to self-coach and develop their own climbing in a systematic manner. John's content is excellent and highly practical.
Crack Climbing - From the legend of crack, Pete Whittaker, this manual, specifically about crack climbing, is the bible of different crack techniques full of illustrated how tos. An excellent practical resource.
The Climbing Bible: Practical exercises - part physical training part moving and technique this is another good resource from experts in the field.
Managing your own expectations about what you need to do, the likely quality of recovery and how long it will takes is vital to ensuring that you can manage the injury throughout its rehabilitation.
Rock Climbing Essential Skills & Techniques -by Guide Libby Peter, this is the official book for mountain training qualifications and is an excellent and well laid out manual. Recently updated it now covers some more of the indoor aspects as well as movement and technique. Libby’s website also has some excellent content on it which is well worth a read.
Advanced Rock Climbing, Robert Gaines - the American version of Libby Peter's book this is still an excellent resource for UK climbers and gives a different perspective on the same set of technical skills.
Down - Andy Kilpatrick - descending from climbs is often the most dangerous part of a day out. This book covers a myriad of different techniques to help you do it safely and better.
Higher Education -Andy Kilpatrick - A practical guide to self learning and preparing for big wall climbing.
Nutcraft - Andy Kilpatrick - a short but useful guide to the use of passive protection for trad climbing.
1000+ tips for climbers - Andy Kilpatrick - literally what it says it is, lots of excellent climbing tips. You learn something new every time you read this book.
Injuries
Make or Break - by MacLeod a book focused specifically on climbing injuries and how to rehab them. Written and expertly researched by the legendary Scottish climber Dave MacLeod. I’ve found it an invaluable reference for both rehabbing, but also supporting physical training.
One move too many - Climbing is full of repetitious movement which lead to stress and strain and finally injury. This book focuses on developing an understanding of the patterns of injury and how to prevent them.
Places/Guides/Topos
Rockfax - the mainstream resource for topos and now combined with an app which integrates with UKclimbing making recording climbs a bit easier. My only real criticism of rockfax is it can miss out on some routes at crags, so if you have somewhere you go to lots then investing in the local guide is worthwhile.
Independent guides - are an excellent resource for more specific detail on defined areas and often contain routs that aren't covered in Rockfax
Classic Rock - covering 80 routes below HS this is a great book to generate ideas for your first Trad climbs.
Hard Rock - recently updated this covers routes from VS to E4. As with classic rock this show cases outstanding routes from across the country.
Biographies - as a general statement I don't find climbing biographies that good, so unless you really want to read about certain climbers, I'd look elsewhere. A bit of a sweeping statement but most of these books simply swing between a history of ascents and a bit of personal information.
The Push, Tommy Caldwell - possibly the exception to the above overshadowed in the film the Dawn Wall covers much the same content and is better.
Alone on the wall, Alex Honnold
Climbing Free, Lynn Hill - as with The Push this also an exception. Worth a read for how important Lynn is to climbing and some important lessons (buddy checks!)
I chose to climb, Chris Bonnington
Revelations, Jerry Moffat
Full of myself, Johnny Dawes
Beyond limits, a life through climbing, Steve McClure
Statement, Ben Moon
Extreme Rock - published in 1987 and not yet updated, this super rare book covers great climbs at E1 to E9.
